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Forum handed or straight fairleads full#Granted the block itself has the full weight load but that's split between both lines. Further, a snatch block isn't doubling the power of the winch, it's cutting the work on the winch in half, The load is placed on both lines (assuming doubled back) so effectively making each carry less yet. Is it double the 9,000 rating of my winch? No, but that 9K rating is only on the first wrap of the drum-it gets significantly less the further out from the core your layers are so the pull is significantly less as well. The Masterpull synthetic block has a 30K break strength or 15K working load limit roughly speaking. On the new synthetic, I stepped up to 3/8" line with a 17,500 break strength if I recall. I have used an ARB block (couple of them) which have been rated at 30K for years without issue, even on the same 5/16" steel cable. 5/16" that came standard has a break strength near the actual rating of a 9K winch. ![]() I forget off hand what the rating of the steel line is but it's much less than what you'd think given the winch rating. Here is the Masterpull synthetic snatch block:Īctually you're pretty close. You can see they are a fair bit less expensive than the hawse too which requires custom machining and anodizing: Both companies are EXCELLENT to work with and have EXCELLENT products, I'd recommend both.įor reference, here is Vikings delrin roller kit: NOT for use with steel in any way, made exclusively for synthetic line. I have a pic in the safety section, you can see it there. I forgot to grab a pic, but also got one of Masterpulls new snatch blocks made exclusively for synthetic line. I got all this from Viking, they were excellent to work with and awesome on the customer service side of things. Forum handed or straight fairleads license#I need to come up with a creative way to get the license plate to fit still some how yet keep the thimble snug on it's own against the isolator up tight on the rollers. One more step to mess with and un-do when I need it most and if it's submerged, that makes for a real pita trying to un do the shackle just to get it off the bumper. This is temporary as it worked great with the hook on the old steel cable but I don't like having the line tight with the shackle in there. I prefer to have it snugged up against the rollers but I haven't come up with a creative way to get the license plate back on yet. It's obviously dirty here but you get the idea:Īs you can see, I also have the Safety Thimble attached and the isolator as well. I through a quick coat of black rustoleum over it to make it look better. Forum handed or straight fairleads install#You retain the actual roller pins or bolts (which ever style you have) and simply slip the old steel rollers off, slip the new delrin on and install the new snap rings. The delrin rollers are a direct swap in to the Warn steel rollers and come with a ton of extra snap rings to replace the old ones with. It is in no way at risk of contacting the line, the only issue is it makes the snap ring hard to secure in that spot and I want to level it out, eliminate that issue. Need to bend it back down strait again to take up that slight gap. Here are a few pics-you'll have to disregard the slight gap in my roller frame-I hadn't realized I'd tweaked it at some point. My old steel rollers have many sharp edges/burrs due to years of use with steel cable so I opted to just buy the delrin rather than try to clean mine up well enough to feel safe using them with the new synthetic line. Brand new rollers would be fine-but do check to ensure there is nothing to hang up on. Forum handed or straight fairleads free#You can use steel rollers on your synthetic line-IF they are free of all burrs, chaufing and sharp edges, etc. The rollers roll and thus, greatly reduce said drag and friction and greatly reduce heat buildup in that specific location, making it that much easier on the winch line and safer as well. Rollers still have their drawback which in my opinion is a bit too shallow of a bend radius on the roller itself but it's still a great deal better than a hawse style fairlead. What is the difference between that fancy aluminum hawse fairlead and the tree or rock the winch line may be up against? Nothing other than the fancy aluminum fairlead has a companies logo up front to draw attention and get some advertising out for said company. In winching situations, you want to eliminate or at least reduce drag and friction as much as possible. Absolutely rollers are better than an aluminum hawse style. ![]()
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